Open Interview: Jochem Hes, co-founder of Naïf Natural Skincare Interview

Openness:

What do you to include others in your mission?

“We are open about our company’s innovations and development. We hope to lead the way for others and to shake up our fellow manufacturers and retailers. Anyone is welcome to follow our example. We hope to ensure, along with other skincare manufacturers, that all soaps, lotions and shampoos will be produced sustainably in the future. The media has a valuable role to play here as well. Using PR and marketing, we try to increase Dutch consumers’ awareness of the importance of good care with no artificial ingredients.”

Waste challenges:

Do you have any examples of waste challenges you’ve encountered in the course of your entrepreneurial adventures?

“We are always searching for the most sustainable packaging materials. That led us to start using bioplastic tubes and bottles a few years back. This plastic is made from waste produced by the sugarcane industry. At the time, it was the best alternative available. Meanwhile, we have come to realise bioplastic has its own drawbacks. The disadvantages of being a first-mover, basically.

That a plastic is made from biological material doesn’t necessarily mean it’s also biodegradable.

Furthermore, we cannot use this bioplastic for our caps, pumps or spray bottles, as it isn’t sturdy enough. We have therefore continued using PET for these. We’ve always been open about that choice. Besides, I don’t see bioplastics as the end of the line; we’re already working on what our next step should be.

What else?

“Minimal, fully recyclable packaging isn’t always that simple to achieve. Partly because there are so many restrictions. We’ve become well aware of that through the years. Take a tube of shampoo in a shop, for example. The tube must be capable of withstanding light for some time, without its contents degrading. This requires suitable, safe and certified packaging. While certified as sustainable, the cardboard boxes we use to transport our products require labels as well. That means additional packaging material, and also contaminates the cardboard. So, while we do our best to minimise our use of packaging and make it more sustainable, it cannot be eliminated entirely and certain restrictions do apply.”

Waste milestones:

What are you proud to have achieved in your fight to address (plastic) waste?

“Several years back, we discovered baby wipes are made of polyester. As a new father, I used wipes extensively without ever considering how much plastic waste that might create. The ‘big names’ in baby care always talk about the lotions that go into their wipes. “This lotion consists of 99% water with aloe vera.” Nobody talks about the wipes themselves. Those are actually made of 70% polyester. A pack of 75 wipes contains around 50 grams of plastic, equivalent to the amount in two empty soft drink bottles! This inspired us at Naïf to develop plastic-free wipes based on eucalyptus fibre. Additionally, we try to ensure new parents are well-informed.

The ‘big names’ in baby care always talk about the lotions that go into their wipes. “This lotion consists of 99% water with aloe vera.” Nobody talks about the wipes themselves.

If they’re unaware of how much plastic waste baby wipes create, they have no reason to adjust their behaviour. By giving the right example, we can raise awareness among consumers, but also among retailers and in our own industry.” So, what’s next? “Naïf has found a new use for calcium, one of the most abundant elements in sewage sludge. Water treatment companies remove it from water to protect your espresso machine and kettle from the effects of limescale. To create exfoliating scrubs, many large skincare companies use sugar or, even worse, microbeads. Which are bits of plastic. We have now developed a circular face scrub with exfoliating granules that are created from the calcium extracted by water treatment companies. Every time a consumer uses our scrub, the calcium washes down the drain, ultimately ending up back at the water treatment plant.”

I don’t see bioplastics as the end of the line; we’re already working on what our next step should be.

Waste footprint:

After consumers use your products, what happens to the waste?

We aim for it to be recycled or composted. In practice, however, too many of our bioplastic tubes and eucalyptus fibre wipes get incinerated instead. People don’t always separate the tubes from their general waste. Wipes go into the same bin as the dirty nappies. If they do get separated, they are often too dirty to still be suitable for recycling. It’s a difficult issue. To boost our recycling percentage, we’re currently exploring the feasibility of using (recycled) paper in our products.”

Waste industry:

Do you feel a need for more coordination with the waste industry?

“Certainly, but that isn’t easy as things stand. Every district, or even municipality, has a different waste management system. We want to contribute to positive change as and where we can. It’s a bit of a puzzle, though. Working with the waste industry could make it easier to improve recyclability and reduce waste together.”

Open Invitation:

Are there any companies with whom you’d like to discuss waste and its associated dilemmas?

“One of the major beauty brands, say L’Oréal, Unilever, Estée Lauder or Procter & Gamble, because such companies can make a huge difference. It’s ridiculous how many layers of packaging they use to sell their products these days. Unnecessary boxes and blister packs and all kinds of marketing rubbish. I’d like to discuss that with them and urge them to get rid of all that redundant packaging, search for sustainable solutions and pass on the resulting savings to their customers.”

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